White

 

Kellerei Bolzano 2013 Müller-Thurgau Eisacktaler—Last February, we hosted Klaus Sparer for an in store tasting of the wines of Cantina Bolzano, located in Alto Adige. It was fascinating to talk to him about the region, how the grapes are grown, where they are grown, local food, the cool alpine climate. The wines produced by this coop representing over 200 growers are of great quality and a great value. Müller Thurgau was developed in the Swiss Canton of Thurgau by Hermann Müller in 1882 as a crossing of Riesling and Madeleine Royale. The idea was to get the quality and aromatics of the former and the ease of growth and production of the latter. In the end, it's not quite Riesling, but a very tasty and food friendly wine. After harvest in mid September to October, the grapes are pressed and fermented in stainless steel. Aging also occurs in stainless to preserve the freshness and crispness of the wine. In the glass, look for a straw yellow color hints of green- the telltale sign of a cooler growing climate. Floral aromatics, with spice, tropical fruit, and citrus. These continue to the palate, with a dry, crisp medium body touched by minerality. All in, this is a great food friendly wine, a perfect accompaniment to vegetables and lighter fare. $25.98

 

Ingrid Groiss 2013 Gemischter-Satz—Passionate, emotional, and determined are three words that Ingrid chooses to describe herself when it comes to wine making. While going to school and pursuing other interests, she realized where her heart truly lie, and decided to carry on the family tradition of making fine wine. While not certified organic or biodynamic, she finds great importance in sustainable cultivation and preserving the natural environment through conscious land use. Gemischter-Satz translates to "mixed set", and is a designation used in Austria to indicate a field blend of many different grape varietals. Here we see 17 different grapes (Chardonnay, Müller Thurgau, Welschriesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Grauburgunder, Pinot Blanc, Malvasier, Neuburger, Zierfandler, Rotgipfler, Sämling, Roter Veltliner, Grauer Vöslauer, Hietl Rote, Weiße Vöslauer, and Silberweiße) whose vines average 50 years of age, producing a deep and complex wine. On the nose look for complex, ripe aromas of quince, yellow plum, citrus, tree fruit, and mineral. Find the same pure and lively fruit on the palate with a touch of apricot and a long and bright finish. $31.98

 

 

Branko Collio 2013 Chardonnay—Since 1998, qualified oenologist Igor has transformed the property. He started with the land today, Branko has more than six hectares under almost exclusively whiteskinned varieties – and then concentrated on the winery itself and the hospitality facilities. Fermentation and maturation cellars were given a complete makeover. Modern winemaking equipment was brought in to ensure that grapes and bunches are treated with due respect. When vinification is over and the wine has been bottled, the bottles are stored in temperature-controlled cellars set sufficiently below ground to ensure the wine’s harmonious evolution in the medium to long term. Igor brings out the best in his Chardonnay by fermenting and maturing about 30% of the wine in mid-sized oak containers. The wood imbues the wine with a complex swath of aromatics that fold into varietal fragrances of bananas and pineapples. Bottle ageing brings satisfyingly cushiony softness and robust structure. This is a wine with serious character, capable of significant sensory development in the second and third years after harvest. $38.98

 

Red

 

Mas de Libian 2013 Khazan—The return of Khayyam! Named in honour of the 11th century Persian poet, drinker and mathematician (Omar Khayyam), this comes entirely from 4.5 hectares of a single biodynamically farmed terroir. The blend is based on Grenache, with some 15% Syrah as well as Mourvèdre (15%) entering the picture for the first time. It's from a terroir littered with rolled 'galet' stones and the vines are cropped at two tonnes to the acre. This wine bats well above the Côtes du Rhône average, in fact it smashes the average for a six (to mix metaphors). It is a wine dripping with black cherry, liquorice, bay leaf, white pepper and anise. It's as dense as it is aromatic and when tasted from barrel was looking superbly balanced. 30% of the fruit was aged in foudre, on lees, bringing texture to the fresh fresh-picked bright fruit, which has been brilliantly preserved by early bottling. We've got a feeling that a certain 11th century 'wine connoisseur' would have purchaced this by the amphorae. $24.98

 

Descendientes de Palacios 2012 "Petalos" Bierzo—The Palacios family is famous throughout Rioja and Priorat for their full throttle reds.  This more unusual bottling comes from Bierzo, in the far Northwest and is from the indigenous menciagrape.  The Petalos is not unlike a Cabernet Franc, with black cherry and plum fruit, flowers and hint of fresh herbs.  The estate is biodynamic and everything must be done by hand in these steep stony vineyards. $37.98

 

San Giusto a Rentenneno 2012 Chianti Classico—San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo grapes, hand-picked when perfectly mature. It is fermented in glazed concrete and stainless steel vats for about 14 days. During fermentation the skins and must are pumped-over and punched-down a number of times to extract the maximum qualities from the grapes.  After the wine has been racked , the skins are soft-pressed in an horizontal press and the juice thus obtained is added to the wine.  Malolactic fermentation is stimulated by heating the building where the vats are stored.  The wine is aged in medium sized casks and oak Tonneaux for about 10-12 months, during which period it is racked several times. Before being released, it is held in bottle for at least another six months. Fresh and clean aroma, good body, excellent balance, harmonious, this vintage is ready to be enjoyed. Early summer 2012 was subject to drought conditions but concluded with abundant August rains. Chianti Classico DOCG 2012 is non-filtered and thus allows the possibility of modest sedimentation. $44.98