Sparkling

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2015 Renardat-Fache Bugey-Cerdon, Savoie, France $37

 

Bugey, an  appellation in France very close to the Swiss border, is a small but diverse region producing wines from grapes shared by the surrounding regions of Burgundy, the Jura and the Savoie.  Many still wines are produced here but the area’s star, coming from the even tinier commune within Bugey, Cerdon, is a Methode Ancestrale sparkling wine.  

 

A respected vigneron in Cerdon, Alain Renardat along with his son Elie, craft a delicious Bugey-Cerdon sparkling rose from Gamay and Poulsard grapes.  To make this Methode Ancestrale sparkling wine (also known in the market today as a “Pet Nat”) the grapes are picked by hand, pressed and partially fermented in cold vats.  Then, after a light filtration that leaves most of the active yeast in the unfinished wine, it is bottled and continues its fermentation in the bottle, reaching about 7.5 or 8 degrees of alcohol and retaining a small amount of its original sugar. It has softer bubbles and more primary grape aromas than most Champagne, since there is neither dosage, addition of yeast nor secondary fermentation.

 

Renardat’s Bugey-Cerdon sparkling rose is delicate, berry-scented, refreshing, and makes for a delicious aperitif or dessert wine.  

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Rosé

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2016 Domaine d’Aupilhac ‘Lou Maset’ Rose, Languedoc, France $26

 

Located in the village of Montpeyroux in the Languedoc region of southern France, the eighteen hectare, Domaine d’Aupilhac has been farmed by the Fadats family since the nineteenth century with the vineyards dating even further back in time to the Romans. In 1989, Sylvain Fadat took over the estate and the process of converting the property to organics whereby he is fully credited with the wines we are fortunate enough to enjoy today.

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Aupilhac is very a special parcel of land, sitting at a high altitude of 1,200 feet above sea level with southwest sun exposure, nestled below the ruins of the village’s chateau.  The ‘Lou Maset’ Rose is comprised of Grenache, Cinsault, Mouvedre and Carignan, 8-15 year old vines, grown on limestone, clay, and blue marl with fossil deposits.

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The rose is crafted using the saignée method, a technique capable of producing some of the longest lasting rose wines. Actually a by-product of red winemaking, 10% of the juice during red wine fermentation is bled off and the leftover bled wine or “Saignée” (Saigner meaning “to bleed” in French) is then fermented into rose.  Wines made from this method are typically much darker than maceration method wines and more savory.

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The 2016 ‘Lou Maset’ is a medium bodied, fleshy, generously textured rose overflowing with aromas of current and spice with strawberries, raspberries and savory herbaceous notes on the palate.

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White

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2015 Petrussa Friulano, Friuli, Italy $26

 

Gianni and Paolo Petrussa, 4th generation of the Petrussa family,  both had the opportunity to work jobs with salaried positions upon coming of age.  Throwing caution to the wind, the brothers declined these jobs and instead followed in their parents’ footsteps. A decision initially not supported by their parents as they remembered the hard life spent in the fields and the economic difficulties they faced, the brothers set out to prove to their parents that they too had perseverance.   With passion, determination and investment, the brothers updated the winery equipment, replanted the vineyards and added the use of French oak barrels.  Today Petrussa is a leading producer in Friuli.  

 

Bright, pale yellow with greenish reflections, this wine has aromas of wildflowers and yellow apple with pleasant notes of bitter almond. Flavors of melon, citrus, almond and sage on the palate are wrapped with delicate but intense acidity and minerality.  
 

2015 Jonathan Didier Pabiot, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire Valley, France $38

 

A father, son team, Didier and Jonathan Pabiot are a remarkable example of tradition and next generation joining forces although it was not without some bending of the mind.    

 

At the age of 21, after working a stint in the Languedoc, Jonathan Pabiot returned to his family domaine in Pouilly-Fumé with a passion for organic viticulture and strong ideas for the future.  Jonathan's father, Didier, a 4th generation vigneron, was not easily persuaded of this new path but he nevertheless gave Jonathan 1.5 hectares of vines that were planted by his grandfather. In addition, Jonathan found an another 1.5 hectares to rent (vines he later purchased) and immediately converted all three hectares to organic viticulture. 6 months later, Didier Pabiot, upon seeing the incredible results of his son's organic approach in the vineyards, decided to follow Jonathan's lead converting his 17 hectares of vines to organics. The father, son duo joined forces in 2010, with all 20 combined hectares now organically certified and they remain one of only three organic growers out of 120 domaines in Pouilly-Fumé.

 

The entry-level Pouilly-Fumé (100% Sauvignon Blanc)  is a blend of all three terroirs found at the estate: Kimmeridgian marl, chalky Portlandian, and clay-silex on flint. The vines average 30 years of age and are planted very densely at 10,000 vines per hectare to encourage the vines to root deeply into the soil. Outside of Burgundy and a few select locations, this density is quite rare in the wine world.

 

Characterized by chalk and flinty, smoky notes, this wine is pure acidity and juicy green fruit that fills the palate and lingers pleasantly on the finish. Complex aromas of guava, yellow plum, lemon zest and straw echo beautifully on the palate, where a mineral mouthfeel keeps things bracingly fresh. The finish is tangy, lemon-driven and very crisp.

 

2015 Ingrid Groiss, Gruner Veltliner In der Schablau Reserve, Austria $47

 

Ingrid Groiss is a young, vivacious female winemaker, living in the Weinviertel, the oldest wine-growing district in Austria. Her relationship with the Weinviertel runs deep, as her parents and grandmother owned vineyards for many years, making wine for their local country wine tavern, traditionally known as a Heuriger. It took Ingrid some time before returning to her roots and taking on the life of a winemaker, whereby she had to blaze her own trail within the family business. Wines of expressive terroir have come to symbolize Ingrid’s craft technique, and deservedly, a dedicated following has ensued. The indigenous vineyard hare, gracing her labels, is symbolic of her dedication to harmony with nature and her connection to this delightful creature that flourishes in her gardens.

 

Peppery yellow plums and freshly peeled lemon dominate the nose and palate. With one sip, their spicy zippy fillip of freshness will make you salivate. If you are in need of lively refreshment, look no further. This is an exemplary Grüner that expresses everything that is outstanding about the 2015 vintage. Crisp, dry, elegant and aromatic with fruit and floral characteristics that spring from the glass.

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Red

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2013 Elio Sandri, Dolcetto, Piemonte, Italy $29

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Perched atop some of the highest hills in the region in a community east of Barolo, in the hamlet of Monforte d’Alba, resides Cascina Disa Elio Sandri. Every part of Elio Sandri’s winemaking is slow and gentle, allowing for very low levels of sulphur and no other additions. The results are exquisite, ultra-traditional terroir-driven wines of unbridled elegance and poise with a seemingly endless lifespan.

 

Although well known for his stunning Barolos, Sandri’s Dolcetto, coming from a north facing vineyard with vines planted from 1977-1978,  is a complex wine, not to be missed. Fermented and aged in concrete as well as a bit of 25 year old barrique, this wine is earthy and rustic with subtle violet aromas and herbal edges.  On the palate, a faint sweetness and plum fruit is framed with granite, bitter almond and tight, structured tannins.

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2015 Grosjean, Gamay, Vallee d'Aoste, Aosta Valley, Italy $38

 

The Valle d'Aosta is one of the northernmost and highest altitude growing regions in Italy. Tucked up right against Switzerland, this is a area of supreme beauty, where grapes can only be grown on south facing hill sides. The family originally raised cattle and grew grapes to make wines for their own consumption. In 1969 the patriarch of the current generation of winemakers was encouraged to present his wines at a wine expo, and overnight things changed. Recognized for the quality of the wine, the focus changed, and today the family grows grapes spread over seven hectares of vineyards. Sustainable farming techniques have been used since 1975, with usage of organic fertilizer, and without pesticides or herbicides. Indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation. This wine is 100% Gamay and undergoes 4-5 days of maceration before aging in stainless steel to preserve the aromatic intensity of the grape.

 

A bright ruby color, on the nose look for red raspberry and cherry which continue to the palate to be joined by a brambly, herbal character and a touch of mineral. Low tannins give a silky mouth feel, while the colder growing region provides a fair amount of food friendly acidity.
 

2015 Moulin de la Gardette, Gigondas Cuvee Tradition, Rhone Valley, France $45

 

Moulin de la Gardette is a small 10ha family owned property in Gigondas with vineyards stretching from the plateau close to the village to the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains. Most of vineyards face northwest, at elevations from 100m to 300m above sea level with soils that are a mixture of limestone and clay. 7ha are planted to Grenache and 3ha to other Southern Rhone varieties, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault. The average age of the vines is 50years, but the oldest plantings now date back over a hundred years.

 

Composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault grapes from vines between 20 and 60, the Cuvee Tradition is rich and luxurious with soft tannins and a long finish. The nose is evocative of ripe dates and prunes with a musky-floral scent while the palate is fleshy with strawberries, plums, sweet herbs and baking spice.