Beer

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Brasserie Dupont Foret Saison $14.98

Brewed by one of the most historic breweries in Belgium, Foret is an amazing farmhouse ale, crafted to be enjoyed out in the field under the summer sun. This organic craft brew has a golden amber hue, rich texture and a refreshing finish. The ale’s full flavor makes it ideal with grilled meats, the bready and floral complexity of the Saison balance the clean influence of the organic hops. (750 mL)

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Rosé

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2015 St. André de Figuière "Première de Figuière" $32.98

Earlier in the year we'd featured the lower end bottling from this producer, called Magali. This is the big boy, one of my all time favorite rosés, and one which can even stand up to a few years of aging (provided you can keep your hands off in the meantime!). Here we see older vines, lower yields, and a slightly different composition. The Magali is approximately equal parts of Syrah, Cabernet, Grenache, and Cinsault, while this wine is 50% Mourvedre, 25% Cinsault, and 25% Grenache. Look for the classic Provencal Rosé flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and a touch of citrus. Acidity and texture play on the palate, while the old vines contribute depth and weight to the wine. It is very food friendly or great on its own. They produce around 50000 bottles a year, and I always make sure to buy a few and stash them for later times.

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White

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2014 Zind Humbrecht Pinot Blanc, Alsace $33.98

Currently headed by Olivier Humbrecht, one of the few winemakers to hold a Masters of Wine certification, Zind Humbrecht has been in existence since 1620. Yes, over 150 years before America became a country, this estate was making wine. They've been practicing organic and biodynamic since 1997, certified organic by ECOCERT since 1998, and certified biodynamic by BIODYVIN/ECOCERT since 2002. Pinot Blanc is the everyday drinking wine of the region, as confirmed by conversations with numerous Alsatian wine makers. Look for spice, pear, and melon in the aroma, with a dry, soft palate and a medium long finish. This wine expresses an elegant delicacy, and is great as an apertif or to pair with lighter meats.

2014 François Chidaine Montlouis sur Loire "Les Choisilles" $46.98

François Chidaine is one of the most talented young vignerons working in France today. He started in the family domaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire, on the south side of the Loire River from Vouvray. For years he made the wines of the Vouvray estate of Prince Poniatowski, and upon the retirement of the owner he was offered the chance to purchase the estate. He did so, and has been making spectacular, focused Chenin Blanc ever since on both sides of the river.

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Les Choisilles is not from a specific vineyard plot, but is, rather, an estate blend of bunches left to hang longer on the vine to attain higher levels of ripeness; that said, it's nonetheless always made dry.  Look for a floral nose of elderflower, followed by a palate of chalk, grilled citrus, peach, and crushed oyster shell. A bone dry Chenin Blanc with great complexity, lip smacking acidity, depth, and a long finish.

2015 Domaine Comte Abbatucci "Faustine" Blanc, Corsica $61.98

In the colorful, picturesque city of Ajaccio, capital of Corsica, you can’t get very far without seeing the name Abbatucci. There are streets, monuments and plazas that carry the name, which is normal given that General Jean-Charles Abbatucci from Ajaccio was a hero of the French Revolution and comrade in arms of another local hero, Napoléon Bonaparte. Step into a wine bar or a restaurant there, chances are these days they’ll pour you a glass of Domaine Abbatucci. The domaine is run by Jean-Charles Abbatucci, a direct descendant of the General, who has now become a local hero of another kind—for providing the local populace with its most sought-after libation.

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The Faustine Blanc comes from 40 year old vines and is 100% Vermentinu grown on granitic soils.  The profile is clean and bright with flavors of white peach, apricot, and nectarine.  On the nose, there is a dash of herb and a whisper of sea salt from its proximity to the ocean.  This wine is a fantastic pairing with fresh summer produce!

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Red

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2015 Domaine de la Grand'Cour (Dutraive) Fleurie Clos de la Grand Cour, Beaujolais, France $42.98

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The estate of Domaine de la Grand Cour dates back to 1969 when it was purchased by Jean Dutraive, making it one of the oldest in the village of Fleurie. Jean Dutraive was joined by his son and fifth generation vigneron Jean-Louis in 1977. By 1989, the reins were fully in Jean-Louis’ capable hands. The heart of the property are the lieux-dits of Clos de la Grand Cour, Chapelle des Bois and Champagne which make up a total of 9 hectares of vines in Fleurie, surrounding the house and cellars. Additionally, the family has 1.6 hectares in the cru of Brouilly. The average age of the vines are around 40-50 years, with a good chunk around 70 years old.

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Jean-Louis is a devout practitioner of organic viticulture and the property has been certified by ECOCERT since 2009, though was practicing organic for many years before that. Harvest at Dutraive is done by hand and grapes are immediately placed in tank at low temperatures to begin carbonic maceration (without sulfur). The wines ferment naturally with indigenous yeast and are macerated on the skins for anywhere from 15-30 days depending on the vintage and the particular wine. The wines are then gravity fed to the cellar for a period of ageing of 6-15 months, depending on the cuvée. Elevage occurs mostly in used burgundy barrels, though the Fleurie Grand Cour, Fleurie Chapelle des Bois and Brouilly are sometimes aged at least partially in old foudres or cement tanks depending on the vintage. Minimal S02 is added during the élévage, only when necessary, though a small amount is added when the wines are racked and assembled for bottling. And in general, no fining and filtration is used unless absolutely required.

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The wines of Jean-Louis Dutraive are some of the most unique aromatically and texturally in all of Beaujolais. One whiff, and the wines display an almost exotic floral and spicy aroma overlayed over lush minerally Gamay fruit, sort of like a top Morey St. Denis 1er or Grand Cru nose combined with earthy, Volnay-like fruit. There is also a textural lushness and exuberance backed up by ample structure and acid. These are substantial Beaujolais, and ones that could certainly stand up to food. They also have the requisite material to develop and evolve over the medium term, i.e. 10-12 years of aging, easily!

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Domaine de la Grand’Cour is truly an exciting yet still under-the-radar estate (always exciting to get in early!), and Jean-Louis Dutraive deserves his place at the top of the ranks in Fleurie.

 

2010  Remulluri Rioja Reserva, Spain $64.98

This estate can trace its roots back to the 14th century. The modern winery was established in 1967 and has devoted itself to reclaiming and restoring the original vineyards to their former glory. Using organic and sustainable farming methods, their wines start in the vineyards. The grapes are picked by hand, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged for 17 months in new and used oak barrels of various sizes. All of this gives us a clean yet traditional take on Rioja. Tart cherry, raspberry, vanilla, leather, and red flowers dance forth on the aroma and palate. Lower alcohol and higher acidity again serve to make this a very food friendly wine.

 
Pradeaux Bandol, France 2011  $71.98

The Château Pradeaux is situated on the outskirts of the town of Saint Cyr-sur-Mer that lies directly on the Mediterranean Ocean between Toulon and Marseilles. The estate has been in the hands of the Portalis family since before the French Revolution. In fact, Jean-Marie-Etienne Portalis, who inherited the estate in 1752, helped draft the Napoleonic Code and assisted at the negotiation of the Concordat under Napoleon the First. The estate was devastated during the French Revolution and suffered the effects of the phylloxera epidemic in the 19th century. Suzanne Portalis and her daughter, Arlette, retreated to the domaine during World War II and undertook to revive the domaine. The domaine is currently under the direction of Cyrille Portalis, the sole direct descendant of Suzanne and Arlette. He continues to maintain the great traditions of this estate and is assisted by his wife, Magali, and now his two sons, Etienne and Edouard.

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The vineyards are cultivated in as natural a manner as possible with reliance on organic methods. In fact, for many years during the spring months sheep grazed in the vineyards thereby eliminating any need to use herbicides and at the same time providing a natural compost. The wines of Pradeaux are brooding and difficult. Produced on the back of the noble Mourvèdre, Pradeaux in its youthful stages is tannic, backward and sometimes ornery. The wines are not destemmed; élevage in large oak foudres can last as long as four years; vines of less than 25 years of age are not used for the reds. The traditional Bandol wine is 95% Mourvedre, from vines that are 25 years and older. Traditionally vinified, it includes stems that will contribute to the powerful structure and savory herb notes. The wine spends four years in large barrel before bottling. Dense black fruit, ‘Herb de Provence’ and smoked meat- this wine needs hearty food.